How to Reset the Warning Lights on Your Electric Vehicle
Check electric vehicle system error.
#1The "Check electric vehicle system error" warning light seems to come on if I have been rapid charging (50Kw) for 30 mins or more. Sometimes the light stays on all day, and even sometimes into the next day. Sometimes only for a few hours. Sounds like it's a temperature problem.I have it booked to be seen at a Hyundai dealership, the car still charges and behaves like normal though. I don't get the warning light if I charge on the granny or type 2.I have noticed this since getting the car in March, but couldn't figure out what was consistently causing until later on as I wanted to avoid rapid charging as much as possible.My question is, has anyone else experienced this, and if so, do they know what it was? Got it fixed? How long to repair? I don't know with the current Covid-19 situation I can get it looked at as I'm in a high risk area, and need a courtesy car if they need my car for a while. But so far appointment hasn't been cancelled.
#2I don't know much about your problem, but my 2020 Hyundai Ioniq was in for a battery investigation (and ultimately replacement) for most of September in Oxfordshire. I think in general they're obliged to get you a courtesy car for any warranty investigation and in my case they arranged a hire car because there were no courtesy cars available. The main dealerships seem to have quite good hygiene measures in place for getting courtesy cars to you. My suggestion: call your local dealer and chat to the service desk. (And get their name so you can ask for them again!)
#3I don't know much about your problem, but my 2020 Hyundai Ioniq was in for a battery investigation (and ultimately replacement) for most of September in Oxfordshire.
that's the 1st traction battery replacement i have seen on here
did they say what the issue was and why the battery was replaced?
#4Just doing a rapid charge at the moment while it's cooler outside (11c) to see if it triggers the warning light after I charge. Started at 19%, will see how it goes when I stop at 84%. My appointment is on 13th October, will do one more rapid charge just before the appointment so they can see the warning light, or would it be best to take it to them on a low charge so they can rapid charge it themselves and monitor it that way?
#5Most of the dealerships I've seen haven't got rapid chargers
#810pm, checked the car and the warning light is gone. It's still 11c outside. I guess it's cooled down enough to not trigger the warning light on start up.Okay Knifyspoony I will do that
#9Taken it to dealer this morning, got this as a courtesy car 2020 PHEV 130 miles on odometer. I have to say, I do not like the inconsistent feel of the accelerator and braking compared to my BEV, and the weird auto coast and auto braking it does. Felt weird hearing an engine and feeling it vibrate through to the steering wheel, I've only driven EV's for just over 2 years .
The car was nearly empty on fuel, and they said bring it back with a full tank of fuel! So that's going to be 50 or so quid out of pocket .
I want my EV back hah.
#13At least you have a courtesy car, I've got to take mine in and I've been told I can't have a courtesy car, due to covid, it's a bit lame. It's like saying you can't go on a train carriage as someone else with covid might have been on it.
#10early on there were a few cars that had been at the auto shows / launch events and they had pull some relays and battery pack fan connectors and if memory serves me correct it gave similar errors, and it only showed up when the battery pack got warm needing the cooling system / fans to run (similar to what you are seeing after a fast/rapid charge)
#11 (Edited)I just got my car back. Drove the PHEV back in sports mode and its way better then regular D mode, more consistent pedals .
They rang me and they said they are going to replace the charger module, turned up and another customer rep looked at the paperwork report and listed out: charger module, cooling fan and battery! They said it will take 1 day for the job. I have my doubts there haha. But man, if they are replacing the traction battery too that was completely unexpected and glad this is all covered under warranty.
They said they will give me a call back to arrange when I can book the car in again.
Edit: They didn't charge the car while they had it, just on a rapid now starting at 19% and charging time at a Geniepoint DC CCS charger car says 1:15 mins to charge I think they reduced the charging speed? Or not, just the car estimate is a bit much.
#12Charged to 80% and it's just started to slow down, as usual. That's okay then. Stay tuned for more when I get the car taken in again hah.
#15Car has just reached 20000 on the odometer it's a fantastic car.
Got a call, they said they have the parts in, booked for 28th. They said they will have the car all day. They will also provide me a courtesy car again. Cheshire Oaks Hyundai is really good. I have to cross over from Wales into Cheshire though, should be interesting!
#16Advice and support on coronavirus
gov.wales
You may just get away with it.
#17No checks on the way in and out this morning, will see what happens when I get my car back at work rush hour .
I arrived there about 8:15, I could see they started work on it about 8:35 in the waiting area there is a big glass wall to see inside their workshop. Car not lifted up, just taking all the stuff out of the back first. Had to leave after getting the courtesy car and to make it into work though so couldn't witness the rest, which I sure would have been fascinating to see. Had a call 3:35pm that they finished the work. Will see what work they did in the report when I get there, but sounds like they had to get right into the high voltage battery case at the very least to do what they needed to do.
A post in a couple of hours to report back
#18 (Edited) Sorry for the delay, had a lot going on after picking the car back up.
I went into the dealership and spoke to who I presume was the head technician that worked on my car, he said they replaced the charge control module and they sorted out the cooling fan, it wasn't turning on before but now it should. The traction battery not needed to be replaced, it's in perfect health. But the most enthusiastic thing he said was he charged my car back up to full while they had it, which was kind of them
I left it with them at 35% or so percent. Cheshire Oaks Hyundai have been fantastic.
I have yet to rapid charge to test it, so will see.
Take away from all this is to stress test the limits of the car while being safe, so that any issues that might otherwise not be noticed until its too late (past warranty period) are found early. Some may not want to rapid charge much, if at all, but do so to make sure all aspects of the car are used and then you know you have a 100% healthy working car
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#19Guys, hello.
I have a 2017 (july) ioniq electri with over 180.000 km on the odometer. The care is great, the battery is still great.
But.
I do experience Check electric vehicle system quote often on some occasions. Unfortunately I am unable to reproduce the error, but it seems to me it is related to the heat pump, as it occurs more often when the temp outside is fold and I am running a heating. It comes on, and after a few off/on, its gone.
The weirdest thing is I was at the hyundai repair garage with the light ON, but they were unable to find any error. Then they turned the car off, back on, and the light was gone.
My main fear is the warraty running out. I only have a couple of weeks left and since its summer time, the error is gone, but it will come back in winter - but this time my car will have no more warranty left
I've tried googling and found no similar issues, the only ones i can find is related to charging on high speed CCS - which is not the case for me. For me, it usually happens a few minutes after starting the car and the heating is on at max power.
Can you offer me any advice, experience?
#20These Ioniqs do get some gremlins popping up when the 12V battery gets problems with a low voltage. It would be worth getting a BM2 battery monitor, which takes only about 10 mA to run, and records the battery voltage and you can review it later & download screen-captures from your phone. It's a good item to have anyway and you can monitor the voltage in real-time on phone app as the problem comes and goes. If it eliminates he battery as a cause, then that's one less possibility.
The car should be charging the 12V ok when it's fully on, but maybe it just gives the 12V a brief 14.6V quick topup for a few minutes then goes into "idle" mode at 13V after that, and just maybe a large power demand from heat pump motor & other items already running is taking a large but short-lived power surge & the 12V can't cope. It only has to go below some voltage threshold for a fraction of a second to trigger an internal low-voltage interrupt message to the cpu which will light the warning lamp, then moments later the load disappears & the cpu thinks it's all okay now.
Here's my Ioniq 38, already with a battery damaged by one vampire drain that took it down to 8.3V and will have sulphated it or buckled the plates or whatever. The steady 13V flat bits are when plugged into domestic EVSE. The 14.6V peaks are either the daily topup lasting 20 minutes, or the car charging the 12V while out driving. There's a nearly 2-day interval when no daily topup happened, I have no idea why not, maybe that blip in the middle the voltage was just ar 12.6V & car decided battery is fine & charged up enough. Then there are several blips when the voltage has dropped below 12.0V, and one where it fell to 11.5V. All this low-voltage and voltage-dropping-steadily stuff is a sure sign of a damaged battery, and we know that replacing with a brand new Yuasa equivalent will look much better!
It's quite possible yours is behaving similarly. Do get a BM2 and find out.
#21Excellent idea. Also my car is outside and when its cold most likely the 12V also takes a beating and lower voltage on start?Is there a solution if this is the case or its just for my piece of mind knowing what the problem is?
#22If the battery is several years old, out of warranty (I think Hyundai only give 2 years on the 12B battery?) and the BM2 shows signs of a weak battery, then a new Yuasa battery is a good plan anyway, and may fix the problem. Things like this, you have to eliminate possible causes one-by-one.Not a good idea to live with a dodgy battery unless you're very careful. The original one on my 3-year old Ampera EV decided to fail suddenly, just as it was pulling in the Contactors to start a home charge. The weak power failed to pull these in properly, and the resulting arc welded them and the car was bricked. Fortunately just inside the guarantee period, so just cost me time. Unlikely to happen to anyone during their lifetime,. but just shows what can happen.
#23Thou the 12V battery is the original one, its, according to the test done, in perfect condition.I noticed that this error pop up when using climate control with HEAT on. Im thinking maybe its the electric heater issue, before the heat pump takes over?When its in AC mode, the error never comes up. I will try to see if setting the climate mode to ECO changes anything. Speaking of this, do anybody know what is the purpose of the ECO climate mode? What it really does?
#24its not also that...what i noticed, when it rains + slight cold 19C or 65F (if its hot, above 30C it never happens), the error just keeps popping up. I think it got worse after the latest recall. Something about the 3 phase ground cable.Now i have to find out if the error only happens with the AC on, or also with off.
#25I have ioniq 28kWh and have intermittent check ev system mostly in winter. Dealer cannot find a fault even when light lit at dealer. Someone online suggested they got a 3 way valve in AC replaced under warranty to fix the issue, but there are a few valves in the ac system and I don't know which one. The main dealer can't fix it. I might bring it to an EV back street specialist. This website shows how complicated the AC system is :
Ioniq AC plumbingI also attempted my own obd fault code reader and it could not find any stored error nor reset anything. It seems to go away mid trip or next start up.sometimes. gives very little trouble in summer. Car still drives ok, no issues but is now out of warranty and it's annoying.
12 volt is new and good and I have a 12 volt monitor bm2. It happens mid trip so unlikely to be 12 volt that's charged when driving. I have had all recalls completed
#26Damn, I should have read your post earlier, as I went and bought a new 12V battery.But maybe you are right and it is related to the valve, as it seems to me the issue gets worse when the weather is more humid than cold. And the AC is switching between heating/cooling/defrosting?
#27I've noticed something very "interesting" during this weekend, but before I write about it...
Guys, what is the red 12v battery icon shown on the left side of the dashboard? what does it relate to?
says here:
Hyundai IONIQ Dashboard Warning Lights - DASH-LIGHTS.COMnumber 29: The Hyundai Ioniq battery warning light illuminating when the engine is running indicates a battery charge malfunction. Due to the battery not charging, the engine may cut out when battery energy has exhausted. Immediately turn OFF all electrical accessories. Try not to use electrically operated controls, such as the power windows. Keep running the engine and make your way immediately to a repair workshop.
This is clearly info for the ICE cars, so what does this light means for electric cars?
#28I suspect it means that car is not charging up the 12 volt from the main battery. You can do this by turning car on without pressing brake pedal. So car is not really on. When driving this should never come on, and it never comes on in normal use. I only see it when I have not pressed brake pedal and press start button.
#29Right, I noticed this symbom after being plugged with the car turned on - so the AC was running...then when I unplugged this symbol became lit.
#30Alright guys, I will try to explain this as good as I can....This issue is 100% related to the A/C part of the aircon system, not the heater, but the A/C.We all know that heating can solely run on the A/C with disabling the HEAT and pressing the A/C...then it will take some time, but the heat will come. So I did some testing with only using the A/C for heating with temps around 0-7C.I also replaced the 12V battery with the new Varta 13A model. As my 12V battery was still the original one, meaning 5 years old which is quite high for it...First couple of days there was no error but then it happens, and it was on a day where I did a short trip, turned off the car and return to it in a few minutes...I ALSO BELIEVE I FIGURED WHAT THE ERROR DOES.When the error is ON/lit car works normally, the driving, but the A/C is not working. I know this for sure as I drove quite a few miles with the A/C on and error light on, but there was no heat coming from it and the aircon consumption was 0.2kW. Then I parked the car, shut it off, turn it back on (error was still on), turn off and back on so the error was gone. And soon after the A/C consumption went up and heating started.I dont know if its related to the compressor not spinning up or the whole system is not working, but it is mighty strange this does not show on the error log.I will get myself a 12V LED meter, plugged it into the cigarrete lighter and check if the voltage perhaps falls when error happens. Maybe this is still related to the 12V as maybe the voltage is too low for some part of the A/C not able to " width="50"move", turn on, switch, etc?
#31I have a battery voltage logger fitted and error often occurs while car is driving so I would say it's unlikely to be battery voltage as while driving battery is kept high.
The cigarette lighter is disabled when car is off so you will only see voltage when car is on, so you will only see charging voltage not off battery voltage. I have a bm2 battery monitor so I don't think it's the 12 volt.
#32Hm...how often does this bm2 monitor reading the data? all the time, every second, every 5second, etc?Because today I got the cigarette lighter monitor, and the voltage jumps above 14/15V quite often, defo a lot more than shown on your graph. Maybe there is such a short drop that is not logged in bm2?
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